Review: The Gainsborough 2-for-1 Set Lunch

The Gainsborough in Bath Spa is steeped in history and served as the latest venue for a Total 'culinary expedition'. We were kindly invited along to sample their Lunch Menu, which is currently on offer as part of their 2-for-1 deal. Liz Ledger cast her taste-buds over the menu and reported back.

We decided to take in the hotel bar before being seated in the restaurant and got chatting to a married couple out celebrating their 25th wedding anniversary with their children. The atmosphere in The Gainsborough was refreshingly relaxed, definitely somewhere to come after a busy week at work to unwind and decompress. The friendly and attentive barmen were more than happy to talk us through their impressive selection of wines and spirits – something that comes across as a particular pride of theirs. We opted for the 2011 Rioja Tinto Phincas, with its delicious red plum and black cherry flavours it really got the taste buds going, and at £45 was reasonably priced.

The table we were shown to was light but cosy, nestled in the corner of the restaurant beneath large windows offering views of the bustling Victorian streets outside. The décor is tastefully done with an impressive wine chiller separating the two ends of the restaurant, meaning the open, airy space still feels intimate.

Soon after being seated we were presented with an impressive selection of warm breads; a brioche style, a soft and tangy almost quiche-tasting cheese, and a seeded bread served with salted butter. My dining partner and I both have more of a savoury palate so opted for an appetiser and a main, rather than a dessert.

I decided on the Chicken Liver Parfait with Almond Granola and Rhubarb to start, followed by the Roast Breast of Poussin, Paneed Leg, Broad Bean Puree, Pancetta and Girolles.

The Chicken Liver had a well-balanced mix of textures with the melt-in-the-mouth parfait being punctuated by the crunch of the granola and the zesty rhubarb really adds to the rich flavour. The Poussin was a feast for the eyes with the colourful puree and garnish complimenting the succulent main. Having been cooking to perfection for eight hours, the Poussin was expertly partnered with the pancetta and girolles to again make the overall dish well textured.

Vicki – my dining partner – ordered the Ballotine of Smoked Salmon, Horseradish Mousseline, Olive Crumb and Yuzu to start and then on to a Wild Mushroom Risotto, Poached Quail’s Egg and Parsley Puree.

The salmon came out smoking dramatically, the presentation really giving you that ‘wow’ factor. The risotto, which can easily be an underwhelming dish, almost looked too good to eat thanks to the garnish and accompanying puree. Vicki assured me that it tasted as good as it looked and was rich and earthy in flavour.

The Gainsborough’s ever-changing A La Carte menu is influenced by summer ingredients and are sourced locally to Bath wherever possible, and although this was just a two-course lunch, no expense was spared on the exquisite ingredients or playful presentation.

We were treated to a delightful conversation with Head Chef Dan Moon who we quizzed about the smoking smoked salmon and his choice of menu. We were bowled over by his enthusiasm and clear passion for food and sourcing local ingredients. Although Bath is home to some truly stellar fine dining restaurants, Dan Moon’s food has made The Gainsborough a real contender and it’s plain to see why they are receiving international acclaim.

In conclusion, the vibrant atmosphere and rich variety of guests – from professionals conducting business lunches to large relaxed family get-togethers – means The Gainsborough should be seen as so much more than a restaurant just for guests of the hotel. I could have definitely whiled away the rest of the afternoon relaxing comfortably, chatting and sampling the seemingly never-ending collection of wines and spirits and will certainly have the rest of my diary blocked out for my next visit.